Exploring the natural beauty of central Vietnam offers a transformative experience.
After enduring 20 hours of flying and a couple of less-than-appealing cups of coffee, my mother’s anxiety levels were skyrocketing. The plan was for her to visit Bảo Lộc, my wife Lily’s hometown, since I had been unable to secure a UK visa for Lily. My mother had never heard of Bảo Lộc before, much less tried to pronounce it.
For someone like my mum, who thrives in cooler climates filled with pine trees and mountains, the oppressive humidity, bustling traffic, and sizable insects of Vietnam were far from her idea of bliss. Hot weather tends to shift her from a cheerful Brit to a disgruntled traveler within minutes, making her crave familiar comforts like fish and chips after just one day. It was a puzzling thought whether she would adapt to such a stark change in her surroundings.
As we meandered out of the airport in Ho Chi Minh City, my mother wore a look of bemusement that clearly conveyed her bewilderment. The steady stream of travelers around us bustled with an energy that made her seem all the more out of place. Her thoughts seemed to echo, “Does anyone here speak English?” Meanwhile, Lily was equally anxious. Though they had shared countless video calls, this was their first face-to-face meeting, and now they had to establish a connection under less-than-ideal circumstances—a limited vocabulary on one side and none on the other. Anticipating awkward silences was an understatement.
Seven Hours of Cultural Shock
We boarded the first bus out of the cityscape, heading toward Bảo Lộc. To be candid, this city wasn’t exactly tailored for a senior citizen who feels overwhelmed by shopping carts and is daunted by the sheer number of motorbikes. Ironically, just a few days earlier, I spoke to a local shopkeeper who claimed, “Bảo Lộc is increasingly becoming a hotspot for locals.” Western tourists are still a rare sight, with fewer than 50 expatriates living here.
Despite the language barriers, my mother and Lily found common ground in their conversations. My mother was eager to learn everything about Lily, while Lily took on the role of translator with enthusiasm. I had picked up a Vietnamese phrase from DuoLingo: “Người phụ nữ nói hơn người đàn ông,” which means “women speak more than men.” At that moment, proving this statement false was the least of my concerns.
The journey from Ho Chi Minh City to Bảo Lộc was an adventure in itself. Each curve of the mountainous road elicited gasps and cheers from my mother, met with giggles and nervous laughter from Lily. The ascent spanned about five miles, filled with hairpin turns that made our driver seem akin to Lewis Hamilton. I could see beads of perspiration forming on my mother’s brow, yet Lily distracted her with the breathtaking mountain views.
“Karen, take a photo!” she urged, her English slightly broken but filled with charm.
Revealing Hidden Treasures
Upon reaching Bảo Lộc, one might think it resembles any other town. However, it’s akin to a slow-burn narrative, waiting to reveal its true jewels. For instance, navigating Đại Bình Mountain isn’t easy without a local guide—there are no clear signposts to lead the way.
After arriving, I noticed that my mother was beginning to relax, with Lily by her side. Our first stop was a local church, followed by Phước Huệ Pagoda, conveniently positioned next to the church. My mum, still adjusting to the absence of traditional British fare, was on a quest for as many blessings as possible. It’s not uncommon to find that pagoda staff either engage warmly or prefer to maintain a low profile.
One expatriate I conversed with shared that the area lacks amenities for foreigners—“Limited English, scarce Western food options, and no airport to speak of.” Nonetheless, eateries and coffee shops are plentiful. Armed with knowledge of local cuisine, Lily took us to Bún Bò O Hương for what many claim is the best beef noodle soup in town. Getting my mother to embrace Vietnamese food had its challenges, but Lily’s adept recommendations turned out to be helpful.
A strong sentiment among locals is a desire to keep Bảo Lộc unchanged. Having achieved city status only in 2010, the area has not been dramatically modernized. A local shared with me his hope for the town, stating, “We want to preserve its natural charm.”
Two weeks into her stay, we took my mother to the breathtaking Damb’ri waterfall, undoubtedly one of the region’s highlights. The thrill of the alpine rollercoaster echoed with delighted screams from tourists venturing through the dense forest. After a steep climb of about a hundred steps to the Buddhist statue at the bottom, I found myself marveling at intricate details steeped in local meanings that often go unnoticed by foreign visitors.
Shortly after, my mother and Lily arrived, elated from their own adventure. They paused for a picture before making their way towards the waterfall, where we all enjoyed the refreshing mist and the mesmerizing sounds of cascading water.
A Place for Reflection
After our exhilarating trip to Damb’ri, the Bát Nhã Monastery provided a serene place for my mother to unwind. Although I don’t identify as religious, I often find myself drawn to this tranquil oasis almost every weekend, situated conveniently close to Damb’ri. It serves as an ideal venue for deep contemplation and relaxation. Unlike many tourist spots, this location is not bustling with selfie-seeking visitors, allowing for a more solemn experience.
By the conclusion of her trip, my mother had grown fond of Bảo Lộc. With its stunning landscapes and charming coffee shops, coupled with its understated attitude toward Western influences, it began to feel like home. Instead of the typical hotel wake-up calls, we were greeted by the sounds of nature. Most tourists flock to Đà Lạt, a much more commercial city nearby, but those seeking an authentic, peaceful escape will undoubtedly appreciate Bảo Lộc’s untouched charm.
