In the 1600s, the term “slop” carried a peculiar meaning in Edinburgh. It referred to the unwelcome contents of chamber pots discarded haphazardly into the streets, a far cry from the digital renditions of today. As pedestrians strolled down the Royal Mile, they would hear the shout of “Gardyloo!”—a local adaptation of the French phrase “Gardez l’eau,” urging passersby to watch out for the sometimes foul projectiles. This gritty history is not just a footnote; it’s a vivid aspect of the city’s rich tapestry, often highlighted on its numerous historical tours.
Edinburgh wears its lack of modern plumbing with both pride and a sense of dark humor, making it a focal point for those intrigued by its notorious past. A closer look reveals that knowledge about historical plagues is a necessity, even if it provokes mixed reactions—especially from younger generations. During a spine-chilling candlelit exploration of The Real Mary King’s Close, I discovered firsthand how the city’s late-night guide could provoke thrills and chills, particularly among children.
One key to Edinburgh’s charm is its ability to transform with the seasons.
As autumn transitions into winter, there’s a peculiar ‘gothic’ atmosphere enveloping this ancient city. While the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in August showcases its vibrant cultural life, the fall months usher in a more somber ambiance, rife with narratives of historical misdeeds, trials, and societal strife. The atmosphere becomes almost palpable as tales of the city’s shadowy history spill into the cobblestone streets, revealing tales of witch hunts, grave robbers, and other misfortunes.
A stone’s throw from the Royal Mile, the quirky yet unsettling Edinburgh Dungeon features interactive performances from historical characters, embodying ruthless judges and notorious torturers. The venue also presents a section dedicated to “Mary Shelley’s Monster,” serving as a reminder of Edinburgh’s stature as the first UNESCO City of Literature. This dark yet historical context provides an ideal backdrop for Guillermo del Toro’s upcoming cinematic interpretation of Mary Shelley’s classic tale.
This artistic endeavor, linked to iconic locations steeped in history, underscores how Shelley’s narrative intertwines with the very soul of Edinburgh. Del Toro filmed in September 2024 along the Royal Mile, exploiting the city’s dramatic ambiance to enrich the narrative of his adaptation. Even though Shelley only cursorily mentions Edinburgh in her original text, del Toro capitalizes on the city’s gothic allure. “We sifted through numerous locations across Europe but ultimately landed here due to the vivid echoes of Mary Shelley’s experiences,” production designer Tamara Deverell recalls.
Touring the filming locations with Rosie Ellison from Film Edinburgh, we visit significant spots along the Royal Mile. Areas like Bakehouse Close and West Parliament Square come alive with narratives of past trades, and give visitors a vivid sense of life as it was in the 19th century. Lady Stair’s Close, notable for its fictitious gallows scene where Victor Frankenstein contemplates body snatching, highlights the grim realities of historical medicine practices in Edinburgh, including the illicit trade of cadavers for medical research.
Even the production team had to communicate their plans to local residents regarding realistic portrayals of hangings to avoid startling them. As Deverell aptly pointed out, “The images can be pretty striking.”
To explore more about the source material of Frankenstein, visitors can find the National Library of Scotland’s treasure trove of Mary Shelley’s work and correspondence. The library holds early editions of her iconic novel and offers a glimpse into her personal letters, captivating those interested in the genesis of this legendary story.
The library’s upcoming exhibition will showcase an array of fascinating materials related to Shelley. Visitors will be able to explore first editions and other literary works that have drawn inspiration from her story. As library curator Kirsty McHugh notes, anonymity was once crucial for female authors in the 19th century, a reality that adds depth to the legacy of Shelley’s work.
Mary Shelley has had an indelible impact on the realm of cinema.
Beginning her journey at age 18, Shelley conceived her groundbreaking work amidst the backdrop of a summer retreat in 1816. Over time, “Frankenstein” has become a cinematic staple, leading to approximately 420 adaptations—its influence rippling through the annals of film history. Considering this extensive legacy, it’s poignant to appreciate how a young woman became a towering figure in the world of storytelling.
While Shelley crafted significant portions of her narrative in Bath, the ethereal presence of Edinburgh echoes throughout her work, embodying a sense of haunted beauty that resonates with both its history and her narrative. As dusk falls and the ancient streets glow softly, it’s easy to imagine that her creature has at last found its rightful home in this storied city, seamlessly blending past and present.
If you’re keen to delve deeper into Mary Shelley’s world, mark your calendar for the exclusive exhibition at the National Library of Scotland scheduled for November 7, from 11 am to 4 pm, where entry remains free of charge.
Explore Guillermo del Toro’s contemporary take on “Frankenstein” and discover the layers of ingenuity that resonate through both literature and film.
