A Rome regular discovers a fantastical hidden gem filled with Art Nouveau palaces, whimsical details, and the Fountain of the Frogs.
I’ve visited Italy annually for nearly two decades, and Rome is always one of my stops. Not because it’s my favorite place in the country—although it is no doubt wonderful—but because I prefer the convenience of flying in and out of Fiumicino Airport. Recently, I had three free days in Rome before heading back to New York City, so I decided to spend them leisurely wandering the historic center. The only problem? The streets surrounding the major sites were unusually crowded for early May—think Times Square on any given day—and I found myself eager to get back to my hotel to escape the chaos.
Back in my room, I calmed my frazzled nerves by mindless scrolling TikTok until one particular video gave me pause. It showed footage of a quiet Italian piazza with fantastical buildings unlike…






























