Iceland is often defined by its stark contrasts—a place where the intense heat of volcanic activity meets the frozen stillness of massive glaciers. While most travelers are drawn to the island’s famous landmarks, there is a profound difference between the bustling tourist hubs and the silent, desolate expanses that make you feel entirely alone. Venturing beyond the well-trodden paths of the Golden Circle or the Blue Lagoon leads to the country’s least-visited territories, offering a raw and spectacular perspective on this North Atlantic wilderness.
Navigating the Remote Interior via the Kjölur Route
While Iceland lacks a traditional railway system, much of the island is surprisingly easy to navigate. The majority of visitors stick to the 820-mile Ring Road (Route 1), a well-maintained highway that circles the coast and connects the most famous sights. However, the true heart of the country lies far from this paved loop in the Highlands. This interior region is a primitive landscape characterized by vast black lava deserts, volcanic sands, and dramatic glacial peaks, representing one of the final true wilderness areas in Europe.
Traveling through the Highlands is an exercise in isolation. There are no permanent towns here; instead, the region is punctuated only by seasonal outposts like the Hveravellir Nature Reserve and the Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll. Accessibility is strictly seasonal, with the necessary “F-roads”—Iceland’s rugged, unpaved mountain tracks—opening only from mid-June through September. Navigating these routes requires a sturdy four-wheel-drive vehicle and a degree of preparation, as the terrain transitions from smooth pavement to rocky, jarring paths that demand a slower pace.
The journey from Reykjavik typically takes about six hours, passing through the familiar landscapes of the Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss waterfall before the road shifts. Once you turn onto the notorious F-roads, the scenery transforms into an endless horizon of earth and sky, free from cliffs but defined by its bumpy, unyielding surface.
The Geothermal Beauty of Kerlingarfjöll and Hveravellir
For those traversing the Kjölur route, the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range is a primary destination. These peaks are composed of rhyolite, a volcanic rock that creates a striking palette of reds, yellows, and greens. The colors shift and intensify with the changing light, creating a surreal environment that feels disconnected from the modern world. In this sparsely populated region, it is common to hike for miles without encountering another person, surrounded only by volcanic moss and ancient stone.
The area is steeped in Icelandic folklore, specifically tales of trolls who roam the mountains under the cover of night. Local legend tells of a troll woman named Kerlingarfjöll who was turned to stone by the sun, leaving behind a jagged rock formation that still bears her name. Hiking to this site offers a glimpse into the cultural imagination of Iceland, where the harsh landscape is personified through myth.
Beyond the folklore, the primary activity in the Highlands is immersion in nature. Whether exploring the steaming vents of the Hveravellir geothermal area or trekking through the multi-colored gravel of the mountain range, the experience is defined by the scale of the environment. It is a place where the geological history of the earth is visible in every stone and steam vent, providing a rare sense of solitude for those willing to leave the main road behind.
Takeaway: Exploring the Icelandic Highlands offers a unique opportunity to witness the country’s rawest landscapes. By venturing onto the F-roads and visiting remote areas like Kerlingarfjöll, travelers can experience a side of the “Land of Fire and Ice” that remains untouched by the crowds, defined instead by silence, volcanic geology, and ancient legends.
Nestled within the rugged interior of Iceland lies a landscape of surreal beauty: the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range. This region is home to Hveravellir, the country’s third-largest geothermal sanctuary and a premier destination for those seeking a profound connection with nature. The environment is a striking tapestry of rusty-hued gravel and distant, ice-capped peaks. Visitors are greeted by the hypnotic sight of rising steam, bubbling mudpots, and the distinct, earthy aroma of sulfur. Ancient Viking legends once whispered that this otherworldly terrain was the entrance to the underworld, a testament to its raw and intimidating power.
Traversing this landscape feels like stepping onto a different planet. The vast stretches of ochre-colored earth are interlaced with meandering streams and framed by the silhouette of glaciers. For safety and conservation, elevated wooden paths guide explorers over the intense heat of the geothermal springs. While the standard four-hour trek is considered moderate in difficulty, the volatile Highland weather demands preparation. Essential gear includes sturdy walking poles, thermal layers, and waterproof clothing. Engaging a professional guide is highly recommended to navigate the shifting mists and ensure a safe journey through this volatile yet breathtaking wilderness.
Premier Accommodations in the Icelandic Wilderness
Given the isolation of the Highlands, finding high-end comfort is a rare treasure. For travelers who prefer a refined experience over traditional camping, the Highland Base at Kerlingarfjöll offers an exceptional sanctuary. Situated at the terminus of the Kjölur route, this property stands as one of the most secluded hotels in Iceland. It serves as an ideal hub for exploring the geothermal wonders of the surrounding area, with expert on-site guides available to lead excursions.
The lodging options cater to various preferences, ranging from rustic campsites and minimalist A-frame huts to forty-six elegantly appointed guest rooms and six premium private cabins. The architecture utilizes warm wood tones and neutral palettes to create a “cocoon” effect, shielding guests from the dramatic elements outside. The interiors are thoughtfully designed with luxury touches, including high-end skincare products and expansive daybeds positioned by large windows to allow for meditative views of the Highland horizon.
Connectivity within the resort is seamlessly managed via an underground tunnel that links guest quarters to the central social spaces. The onsite restaurant—the only dining establishment in the region—focuses on hearty, locally-inspired Icelandic fare. Guests can recover from a day of hiking with nutrient-dense meals such as wild mushroom soup with coconut cream or expertly prepared local lamb. A signature highlight for many is the daily waffle service, providing a comforting, high-energy snack after hours of outdoor activity.
Beyond hiking, the area offers diverse wellness activities. Guests can explore nearby waterfalls via e-bikes or seek out secluded natural hot springs for a private soak. For a more structured wellness experience, the Highland Baths utilize local geothermal water to create a soothing environment, complemented by a traditional sauna. These pools provide a vantage point for the celestial displays of the Highlands. In the clear autumn and winter months, the lack of light pollution offers unparalleled views of the stars and the vibrant, dancing colors of the Northern Lights, offering a humbling reminder of the majesty of the natural world.
Summary: A Journey of Wellness and Discovery
Exploring the Kerlingarfjöll region offers more than just a scenic tour; it is a restorative experience that combines physical challenge with deep relaxation. By balancing the rigors of hiking through active geothermal zones with the therapeutic benefits of mineral-rich baths and high-quality rest, visitors can achieve a unique sense of well-being. Whether you are witnessing the Aurora Borealis or navigating the steam-filled trails of Hveravellir, the Icelandic Highlands provide a powerful setting for personal reflection and physical rejuvenation.
